Bageshwar & Champawat: Complete East Kumaon Heritage Travel Guide

# Bageshwar & Champawat: East Kumaon's Heritage Circuit

When most travellers think of Kumaon, they think of Nainital, Ranikhet or Munsiyari. But the eastern belt — the twin towns of Bageshwar and Champawat — holds a concentration of history, mythology and mountain access that rivals anything in the region. Connected by a 60 km road through terraced hillsides and river valleys, these two towns form a natural heritage circuit that can be explored in three to four days.

Bageshwar: The Lord of the Forest

Set at an altitude of 954 metres at the confluence of the Saryu and Gomti rivers, Bageshwar is one of Kumaon's most sacred towns. Its name derives from Vyagreshwar — Lord Shiva in the form of a tiger — reflecting the ancient forests that once surrounded the valley.

Bagnath Temple

The heart of Bageshwar is the Bagnath temple, a Shiva shrine dating to the 7th century CE (with later reconstructions under the Chand kings). The main lingam is said to be self-manifested; the temple complex also contains images of Parvati, Nandi and a beautifully carved outer mandap. The temple sits directly on the Saryu riverbank; pilgrims traditionally take a dip at the Saryu-Gomti sangam (confluence) before worship.

The Uttarayana Mela held in January is the town's largest festival. Thousands of pilgrims from across Kumaon gather at the confluence for ritual bathing during Makar Sankranti. The fair runs for several days and includes trading of handmade goods, livestock and agricultural produce — a tradition stretching back centuries.

Pindari Glacier: The Trek Base

Bageshwar is the principal gateway to the Pindari glacier, one of the most accessible glaciers in Kumaon. The trek (approximately 55 km return) passes through dense forests, meadows and river crossings, culminating at the glacier snout at 3,820 metres. The full trek takes 5–6 days. Key stops include Song (base camp, 1,920 m), Dwali (3,048 m) and Phurkia (3,254 m).

For those with more time, the Kafni glacier (56 km return from Bageshwar) branches off from the same valley and offers an even wilder, less-trafficked journey into the high Himalaya. Combined Pindari-Kafni itineraries of 8–9 days are popular with experienced trekkers.

Baijnath Temple (30 km from Bageshwar)

En route from Bageshwar toward Kausani lies Baijnath, a cluster of ancient Shiva temples dating to the 12th–13th century CE. The main temple enshrines Vaidyanath (Shiva as the lord of physicians) and is notable for its intricately carved stone panels depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The Garur valley setting, with the Gomti river flowing below, makes this one of Kumaon's most photogenic temple complexes.

Champawat: The Chand Dynasty Capital

Champawat, 60 km east of Bageshwar at 1,615 metres, was the capital of the Chand dynasty for approximately 700 years (roughly 10th to 17th century CE) before they shifted to Almora. It remains one of the least-visited historically significant towns in Uttarakhand — and one of the most rewarding for those who seek it out.

Baleshwar Temple Complex

At the centre of Champawat stands the Baleshwar temple, a group of three stone temples built in the 11th century under Chand king Baldev Chand. The main shrine is dedicated to Shiva; two flanking temples honour Ratnadevi and Champawati Devi. The stone carving quality here rivals the finest medieval temple work in Himachal Pradesh and is often described by archaeologists as Kumaon's greatest architectural treasure.

The temple complex is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. Entry is free. The site is rarely crowded — you may find yourself virtually alone with the carved gods, the silence broken only by wind through the surrounding oak trees.

Purnagiri Temple: The 51st Shakti Peetha

Twenty kilometres from Champawat, the Purnagiri temple sits on the Anda hill above the Kali river gorge. It is revered as one of the 108 Shakti Peethas and, by some traditional accounts, the 51st of the major Shakti Peethas — the spot where the navel of the goddess Sati fell when Lord Vishnu used the Sudarshana Chakra to dismember her body.

The temple is accessible via a 3 km stairway ascending from the road at the base of the hill. The climb takes 45–60 minutes. At the summit, the views across the Kali river valley into Nepal are extraordinary. The temple sees its largest crowds during the Chaitra Navratri (March–April) and Sharad Navratri (October) festivals, when hundreds of thousands of pilgrims ascend the stairs over ten days.

Lohaghat and Abbott Mount

The town of Lohaghat (7 km from Champawat) is a pleasant small bazaar on the Lohawati river. It serves as the access point for Abbott Mount, 20 km away — a colonial-era hill station at 2,010 metres, named after the British officer John Harold Abbott who built a summer cottage here in the 1920s. Abbott Mount has fewer than a dozen cottages, a small church and sweeping views of the Himalaya. It is one of the quietest, most untouched colonial retreats in Uttarakhand.

The East Kumaon Circuit: Suggested Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive Bageshwar; Bagnath temple, Saryu-Gomti confluence Day 2: Drive to Baijnath (30 km), explore temples; return to Bageshwar or overnight in Kausani Day 3: Drive Bageshwar → Champawat (60 km via Lohaghat); Baleshwar temple in afternoon Day 4: Purnagiri temple (20 km from Champawat); return to Champawat or drive toward Pithoragarh Optional Day 5: Abbott Mount excursion from Lohaghat

How to Reach Bageshwar

From Kathgodam railway station: 140 km via Almora. Buses and shared taxis take approximately 5 hours. From Almora: 90 km, approximately 3 hours by road. From Champawat to Bageshwar: 60 km, 2 hours.

Where to Stay

Bageshwar: GMVN Tourist Rest House (₹900–₹1,800), private hotels on the main bazaar (₹600–₹1,400). The town is small; all options are within walking distance of Bagnath temple.

Champawat: Very limited accommodation — a couple of small hotels and a PWD rest house. Most visitors base themselves in Lohaghat (7 km) which has slightly better options.

Best Time to Visit

April–June and September–November are ideal for both towns. July–August brings heavy monsoon rains and landslide risks on mountain roads. Winter (December–February) is cold but the towns remain accessible.

East Kumaon rewards the traveller who ventures beyond the well-worn Nainital–Ranikhet–Almora circuit. Here, medieval temples stand in near-solitude, glaciers wait at the end of forest trails, and a goddess reigns from a cliff above a river that marks the border between two nations.