Kasar Devi & Naukuchiatal: Offbeat Almora's Spiritual Ridge & Nine-Corner Lake

# Kasar Devi & Naukuchiatal: Offbeat Kumaon at Its Best

Kumaon is famous for Nainital and Ranikhet, but its most interesting corners are quieter and stranger. Kasar Devi, a ridge village 8 km from Almora, attracted a remarkable procession of 20th-century seekers — musicians, philosophers, poets and countercultural figures — drawn by something that modern science has begun to partially explain. Naukuchiatal, 26 km from Nainital, is the deepest lake in Kumaon, with nine corners that a local legend says only the fortunate can count in a single glance. Both destinations reward curiosity over comfort.

Kasar Devi: The Cosmic Ridge

The Van Allen Belt Anomaly

At 2,116 metres above sea level on a ridge above the Almora valley, the village of Kasar Devi sits within a documented geomagnetic anomaly. The earth's Van Allen radiation belt — the toroidal zone of energetically charged particles held in place by the planet's magnetic field — dips unusually close to the surface at three points on earth: Machu Picchu in Peru, Stonehenge in England, and Kasar Devi in Uttarakhand. Scientists have confirmed that the magnetic flux density at these three locations is measurably different from the surrounding terrain.

Whether this geomagnetic peculiarity creates a tangible effect on human consciousness is a matter of debate. What is not debatable is that an extraordinary range of thoughtful, creative and spiritually inclined people were drawn to this ridge over a period of 60 years.

Crank's Ridge and Its Famous Residents

The Kasar Devi ridge acquired the nickname Crank's Ridge — half-affectionate, half-ironic — from the British and Indian eccentrics who settled here in the early 20th century. The first significant resident was Alfred Sorensen, a Danish mystic better known as Sunyata, who arrived in the 1930s and lived on the ridge in near-complete simplicity for decades, receiving visitors that included Alan Watts and Ram Dass.

In the 1960s and 70s, Crank's Ridge became a stop on the hippie trail from Europe to Goa and Nepal. Among those who visited or stayed:

• Bob Dylan — spent time here during his South Asia travels

• Cat Stevens — visited before his conversion to Islam

• Timothy Leary — the American psychologist and countercultural figure

• Allen Ginsberg — the Beat poet who wrote some of his India poems nearby

• D.H. Lawrence — visited earlier in the 20th century

Today the ridge is quieter. A handful of cafes, a small cluster of guesthouses, yoga shala spaces and art studios have replaced the more bohemian scene. But the atmosphere — the wide Himalayan horizon, the pine and oak forests, the extreme quiet — remains distinctive.

Kasar Devi Temple

The Kasar Devi temple, perched on the ridge's highest point, is an ancient Devi shrine of uncertain but considerable age. The main deity is Kasar Devi, a form of Durga. The temple is modest in size but the site has an undeniable quality of stillness. Locals perform regular puja; the temple is not formally managed and has no entry fee. Sunrise from the temple viewpoint, with Nanda Devi and the Panchachuli peaks on the eastern horizon, is one of the finest experiences available in the Almora area.

Staying at Kasar Devi

Kasar Devi has evolved into a small but well-established destination for long-stay travellers. Options range from basic guesthouses (₹600–₹1,200) to boutique homestays and yoga retreat centres (₹2,000–₹5,000 per night including meals). The cafes serve excellent filter coffee, organic food and occasionally live music. Wi-Fi is available but slow — Kasar Devi still operates on Himalayan time.

Getting there: From Almora town, Kasar Devi is 8 km by road. Auto-rickshaws and shared jeeps run from Almora bus stand. Many visitors walk the forested trail up from the Almora Bright End Corner viewpoint (approximately 4 km, 2 hours).

Naukuchiatal: The Nine-Corner Lake

The Lake

At 1,220 metres in a quiet valley 26 km from Nainital and 4 km from Bhimtal, Naukuchiatal (Nau = nine, Kuchi = corners, Tal = lake) is the largest and deepest of the Kumaon lakes. The lake reaches a depth of 40 metres — significantly deeper than Nainital (27.3 m) and Bhimtal (15 m). Its irregular shape produces nine distinct corners when viewed from above, though from the water's surface they are difficult to distinguish — giving rise to the local belief that only those who can count all nine in a single gaze will be truly fortunate.

The water is clearer and greener than Nainital, the shoreline less developed, and the surrounding hills denser with forest. On a clear winter morning, the lake's surface holds a perfect reflection of the ridge line.

Birdwatching

Naukuchiatal is among the best birdwatching sites in Kumaon. The lake and its wooded surroundings attract migratory waterfowl between November and February, including bar-headed geese, pochards, teals and the occasional rare species. Year-round residents include the Indian grey hornbill, Himalayan bulbul, verditer flycatcher and various kingfisher species. Birdwatchers should arrive early — 6:00–9:00 AM gives the best sightings along the western shore.

Activities on the Lake

• Paddleboating and rowboating: Available from the main ghat (₹100–₹200 per hour)

• Parasailing: Operated by private agencies on the lake's northern shore (₹600–₹1,000 per person)

• Zip-lining: A short zip line runs above the lake — more scenic than challenging (₹200–₹400)

• Fishing: Regulated fishing for mahseer and trout is permitted with prior permission

Café Culture

Unlike the busier Nainital lakefront, Naukuchiatal has a small cluster of cafes and small restaurants along its shore that maintain a relaxed, unhurried quality. Several offer lakefront seating with good coffee, Maggi, omelettes and occasionally more substantial Kumaoni meals. The overall atmosphere is closer to a quiet European lakeside village than a commercial hill station.

Getting There

From Nainital: 26 km via Bhimtal, approximately 50 minutes by road. Shared taxis run from Nainital bus stand via Bhimtal. From Bhimtal: 4 km, 10 minutes. Naukuchiatal is easily combined with Bhimtal and Sattal in a single day tour of the Kumaon lake district. From Haldwani: 45 km, approximately 1.5 hours.

Combining Kasar Devi and Naukuchiatal

These two destinations are not on the same road but make logical companions in a wider Kumaon offbeat itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive Almora; evening walk to Kasar Devi ridge, sunset at temple Day 2: Morning at Kasar Devi; drive to Naukuchiatal via Almora–Kwarab–Bhimtal route (2–2.5 hours); afternoon by the lake Day 3: Dawn birdwatching at Naukuchiatal; explore Bhimtal and Sattal; return to Nainital or Haldwani

Both places are at their best in October–November and March–May. Monsoon (July–August) brings leeches on forest trails and reduced visibility but dramatically lush green landscapes.

Kasar Devi and Naukuchiatal represent the quieter, more contemplative face of Kumaon tourism — destinations that give back in proportion to the attention you bring to them.