Kasar Devi Travel Guide
A ridge above Almora famous since the 1960s counterculture — Kasar Devi temple, magnetic anomaly and Apple Orchard views.
- Altitude
- 2,116 m
- Best season
- Year round
- From Dehradun
- ~320 km
- Category
- Offbeat
Why visit Kasar Devi
- A hilltop Devi temple on Crank's Ridge that has drawn spiritual seekers for over a century — from Swami Vivekananda to Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens, and Timothy Leary
- A documented anomaly in the Van Allen Radiation Belt creates a unique cosmic energy concentration at Kasar Devi, comparable to Machu Picchu and Stonehenge — this is a measurable geophysical phenomenon
- Alfred Sorensen (Sunyata), the Danish mystic who lived here for decades, inspired a global community of seekers and writers including Alan Ginsberg and Ram Dass
- Extraordinary 270-degree panoramic Himalayan views from the ridge — Nanda Devi, Trishul, Panchachuli, and scores of other peaks visible on clear days
- The village and surroundings retain an alternative, creative atmosphere — studios, organic cafes, and international long-stay residents give it a unique character in Kumaon
- Just 8 km from Almora yet completely different in character — the pine and oak forest ridge feels utterly removed from town bustle
Kasar Devi is a ridge about 8 km from Almora town, named after the ancient Kasar Devi temple believed to date to the 2nd century CE. In the 1960s and 70s it became a gathering point for Western spiritual seekers — Swami Vivekananda meditated here in 1890, and subsequently D.H. Lawrence, Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens, Timothy Leary and Allen Ginsberg all spent time on what became known as 'Crank's Ridge'. The area's reputation led to its comparison with Ibiza and Glastonbury as a spiritual counter-cultural centre.
Scientists have noted a Van Allen radiation belt anomaly above the Kasar Devi ridge — the same magnetic anomaly found at Stonehenge and Machu Picchu — which some researchers suggest may explain the long human association with the site. The temple is simple and the setting — on the ridge with apple orchards and Himalayan views — is beautiful. Several guesthouses and cafes cater to the international traveller crowd who still find their way here.
Explore around
Places near Kasar Devi
Historic Kumaoni town with bazaar, Nanda Devi temple, and colonial architecture
Binsar30 kmWildlife sanctuary with the Himalayan viewpoint at Zero Point — arguably the finest panorama in Kumaon
Jageshwar36 km124-temple complex in a deodar forest — a UNESCO tentative list site
Golu Devta (justice deity) temple covered in petition bells — unique Kumaoni religious tradition
Adjacent ridge walk with views and the Surchanduni temple
What to do
Activities at Kasar Devi
Temple and Ridge Meditation
The Kasar Devi temple is a small, ancient shrine; the broader Crank's Ridge is a meditation destination in its own right — find a rock perch for sunrise or sunset and the Himalayan panorama is breathtaking
Forest Walks
Trails through oak and rhododendron forest extend from the ridge in multiple directions — self-guided walks of 1–5 km reveal forest clearings with sudden mountain vistas
Sunrise Photography
Pre-dawn drive or walk to the ridge for the finest Himalayan sunrise in the Almora area — Nanda Devi at sunrise from here is among the most photographed mountain views in Uttarakhand
Cultural Exploration
The village has art studios, yoga shala, and organic cafes run by a mix of local Kumaoni families and long-term international residents — conversation here is consistently stimulating
Almora Day Trip
Combine the ridge with a full-day Almora visit: Nanda Devi temple, the famous bazaar, Lala Bazaar copperware, and Almora's spectacular sunset from the Mall Road viewpoint
Before you go
Kasar Devi travel tips
- The temple itself is small and simple — the real draw is the ridge, the views, and the atmosphere, not architecture
- Carry a jacket even in summer — the ridge at 2,116 m is significantly cooler than Almora town
- Several cafes on the ridge (including the longstanding Moondance restaurant) serve excellent coffee, banana pancakes, and simple international food
- Long-stay accommodation is available at ashrams and guesthouses for those wanting a meditation retreat of several days to weeks
- Photography is best at dawn and dusk when low light illuminates the Himalayan peaks; midday haze reduces visibility
- The road from Almora to Kasar Devi is motorable but narrow for the final stretch; local taxis know the route well
Getting there
How to reach Kasar Devi
Kasar Devi is 8 km from Almora on the Almora–Ranikhet road with a left turn at Kasardevi village. Local taxis from Almora charge a fixed rate; auto-rickshaws go part of the way. The road is motorable year-round.
Kathgodam is the nearest railhead (90 km, 3 hrs by taxi). Regular taxis from Kathgodam to Almora; then a short local taxi to Kasar Devi.
Pantnagar Airport (120 km) is the nearest airport with connections to Delhi. Taxi to Almora takes approximately 4 hours.
Where to stay in Kasar Devi
- Several guesthouses and ashrams on and around Crank's Ridge offer long-stay accommodation at reasonable rates — ideal for week-long retreats
- Moondance Restaurant has rooms; Kasar Devi Village Resort offers comfortable cottages with mountain views
- Almora (8 km) has the widest range of hotels from budget guesthouses to heritage properties like Kalimath Cottages
- Binsar (30 km) has upscale eco-lodges within the wildlife sanctuary for those combining ridge and wildlife
Food & dining
- Moondance Restaurant on the ridge is legendary among backpackers and spiritual tourists — pancakes, pasta, Israeli food, and excellent coffee
- Bright Star Restaurant is another long-running ridge institution with a relaxed garden setting and multi-cuisine menu
- Almora town (8 km) has excellent Kumaoni food: bal mithai, singodi, and savory chainsoo dal at local dhabas
- Several cafes serve fresh organic produce from local farms — avocado toast and filter coffee sit alongside aloo ke gutke here
Background
History of Kasar Devi
Kasar Devi's spiritual history predates its counterculture reputation by millennia — the Devi temple is of ancient provenance, and Swami Vivekananda meditated on Crank's Ridge in 1890 during his journey across India. He later described the ridge as an exceptional place for meditation, drawing early 20th-century seekers to the area.
Alfred Sorensen — a Danish mystic known as Sunyata (Emptiness) — lived on Crank's Ridge from the 1930s until his death, cultivating a life of radical simplicity and drawing visitors including Alan Watts and Ram Dass. His presence attracted the first wave of Western spiritual tourists in the 1960s. Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens (later Yusuf Islam), Timothy Leary, and Allen Ginsberg all visited the ridge during this period, earning it the informal name Crank's Ridge.
In the 1970s, researchers studying the Van Allen Radiation Belt discovered that Kasar Devi sits within a zone of unusual cosmic ray activity similar to that observed at Machu Picchu and Stonehenge. This geophysical anomaly — a measurable electromagnetic characteristic — gave scientific credence to the intuitive assessments of generations of meditators. The ridge continues to draw a diverse international community of artists, writers, yogis, and seekers who live alongside traditional Kumaoni farming families.
Plan your trip
Suggested Kasar Devi itinerary
- Day 1Drive from Almora (8 km, 20 min). Morning visit to Kasar Devi temple. Ridge walk for views — sit and acclimatise to the altitude and atmosphere. Lunch at Moondance or Bright Star. Afternoon: forest walk on the oak-rhododendron trails above the ridge. Sunset from the ridge viewpoint. Overnight at ridge guesthouse.
- Day 2Pre-dawn rise for sunrise over Nanda Devi. Morning: drive to Chitai Golu Devta temple (11 km). Almora: Nanda Devi temple, bazaar, copperware shopping, lunch. Afternoon: continue to Jageshwar (36 km) or drive to Binsar (30 km from Almora) for wildlife and further Himalayan views.
Common questions
Kasar Devi FAQ
- What is the Van Allen Belt connection to Kasar Devi?
- Studies have shown that Kasar Devi sits within an unusual concentration of the geomagnetic field associated with the inner Van Allen Radiation Belt. This creates a measurable electromagnetic anomaly similar to those found at Machu Picchu and Stonehenge. Many attribute the ridge's reputation as a meditation site to this phenomenon, though the science is not definitive.
- Who was Alfred Sorensen (Sunyata)?
- Alfred Julius Emanuel Sorensen (1890–1984) was a Danish mystic who lived on Crank's Ridge for decades. He took the name Sunyata (the Buddhist concept of emptiness) and lived in radical simplicity. His visitors included Ram Dass, Alan Watts, and Allen Ginsberg. His transcribed talks were published posthumously as Incredible Man.
- Is Kasar Devi suitable for a meditation retreat?
- Extremely — the ridge has several ashrams and guesthouses that cater specifically to meditation retreats from a few days to several weeks. The altitude, forest setting, and community of like-minded residents create ideal conditions. Several established yoga and meditation teachers are based here.
- How is Kasar Devi different from Almora?
- Almora is a busy Kumaoni market town at 1,638 m. Kasar Devi is 8 km away on a quieter forested ridge at 2,116 m — cooler, more spacious, with a creative and spiritual community atmosphere quite distinct from the market town below.
- Can I visit Kasar Devi as a day trip from Nainital?
- Yes — Nainital to Kasar Devi is about 85 km (2.5–3 hrs). A day trip from Nainital combining Almora bazaar and Kasar Devi ridge is very manageable. Allow at least 3–4 hours on the ridge for a meaningful visit.
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